Hey, do you remember back when your grandmother used to go to the salon for a hair perm?
Well, lash lift procedures and products work pretty much the same way.
LASH ANATOMY OVERVIEW
Looking at a natural lash you will see the cuticle which protects the internal structure and has many layers (kinda like our skin, it’s what we see on the outside).
Underneath the cuticle you’ll find the middle layer called the cortex ( when I think of cortex I think of strength and stability).
*this is where melanin is produced which gives lashes their pigment (color).
The innermost layer is called the medulla - is composed of loose cells.
Now that you’re up to speed on lash anatomy let talk about lash lift products and procedures!
LASH LIFT PRODUCTS AND PROCEDURES
Besides cleaning the lashes and nourishing them there are two essential steps which involve the physical action of wrapping the lashes around a silicone pad or rod, followed by a chemical reaction.
The chemical reactions require two steps, first the reducing agent (perming solution) is applied, removed after x amount of time, and then the oxidizing agent or neutralizer (setting solution) is placed on the lashes for another amount of time. Keep in mind, product ingredients and procedures are different among brands.
Some, and by some, I mean the majority of lash solutions contain a chemical called “Thioglycolic acid”, used to break the bonds within the strands of eyelashes.
Thioglycolic acid and Thioglycolic acid salts are reducing agents.
These disulfide bonds are broken and reformed continuously.
It is the softening process that allows the lashes to change their structure and shape.
Now here is the FUN part, or at least I find it fun.
Consumers are all about finding safer products for application - and TRUST ME, I am all about that..
New products are available on market such as bisulfite, or thioglycolic acid free formulas.
No doubt bisulfite systems (cysteamine) are more gentle on lashes than thio and salts but are they as effective? No.
Bisulfites break about 50% of bonds, while thio breaks 70%.
What the f**k does this mean, right?
It means our long term friend thio works faster and lasts longer than our new pals, and our new pals are less damaging than thio.
I’ve used both and in my preference I prefer the thio with deep rich nourishing solution and Ilashrehab, but that's me - and you are YOU!
So what do you do?
You educate yourself on the ingredients in your products and you inform your clients of their options.
Regardless of what ingredient you decide on, just PLEASE remember how important it is to use a protective serum on your clients lashes and encourage them to purchase one to keep their lashes healthy.